The sun is out. It is nearly 30 degrees in Leiria. And somewhere near the cathedral, a Sunderland fan is stacking empty beer barrels for a Portuguese pastry-shop owner who has hooked a free pump of Sagres to his front door. This is what 53 years of waiting looks like.
About 5,000 Wearsiders have made the trip for Sunderland's first European away game since the early 1970s, and the checklist ticks itself off. A fiddly journey to a pretty town they would never otherwise see? Done. A fussy Albanian referee?
Naturally. Tickets in short supply? Email the president of Torreense and he will sort you out, the so-called "Nuno-tickets" turning out to be gloriously real. Inside a stadium far too big for the crowd, the hospitality beer is inexplicably free.