Once hunted almost to oblivion off Brazil's coast, humpback whales are returning to bays they left centuries ago — and Rio de Janeiro is watching in astonishment.
At sunrise, the Boaventura II slips out of Rio de Janeiro harbour and heads past the Cagarras Islands — rocky outcrops barely three miles from Ipanema beach. Within minutes of the passengers gathering at the bow, someone shouts a direction, and a pod of bottlenose dolphins appears. Then two columns of vapour hang in the still air: humpback whales, surfacing to breathe before arching their flukes and sliding back beneath the South Atlantic. For skipper Theo Andrade, co-founder of the tour agency ROC Sail, the scene is one he has been building towards for years.
"You can't put a price on this show," he says. "It's pure magic."
What makes these sightings remarkable is not simply their beauty but their location. Humpbacks have long migrated along the Brazilian coast between June and November, moving from feeding grounds around South Georgia and the Sandwich Islands toward the warmer, shallower waters of the Abrolhos Bank in the north-east, where they breed.
But this year, one whale has been spotted inside Guanabara Bay — the enclosed urban inlet at Rio's heart — at least 18 times, a first in recorded history. Scientists believe the animals may be reclaiming territory that was stripped from them by industrial and artisanal hunting documented as far back as 1780. Luciane dos Santos, a 53-year-old who runs a drinks wholesaler in Rio, took a day away from work on the chance of seeing one. She ended up watching six humpbacks.
"I'm amazed at how a 50-tonne animal can perform such a beautiful leap that leaves everyone spellbound," she said afterwards.