Kinmen and Matsu sit within sight of mainland China's skyline, frozen relics of a Cold War that has never officially ended.
Stand on the beach at Kinmen and you can almost count the windows on Xiamen's skyscrapers. The Chinese city is just two miles away across the water. Rusted anti-tank spikes still line the sand. A propaganda sign on the mainland shore reads: "Unite China under one country, two systems.
" A local fisherman casts his rod here every morning. He knows Xiamen's skyline better than most of its own residents. Yet he is not afraid. "Life here is very peaceful," he says, "and we keep to ourselves.
"
That quiet defiance has deep roots. In 1949, Chiang Kai-shek's Nationalist government — the Kuomintang — fled the Chinese mainland after losing to Mao Zedong's Communist forces. The Nationalists retreated to Taiwan, but Chiang held onto a string of coastal islands as strategic footholds for a planned counter-attack. That plan never materialised.
The People's Republic bombarded Kinmen and Matsu with artillery for years. Chiang surrendered one island, Dachen, but never the other two.