As Cameroon's capital sprawls over its valleys and hillsides, residents are quietly replanting what bulldozers and housing shortages have erased.
Sosthène Hugues Ngono can still point to the exact spot where he used to bring his first dates. Today it is a private car park. The public park in Essos, a crowded neighbourhood of Yaoundé, was flattened in February last year, and the 36-year-old mathematics teacher now stands at the edge of the asphalt like a visitor at a grave. "It was where I came to clear my head when things felt confused," he says.
His loss is small, but it belongs to a pattern that the numbers make hard to ignore. According to a University of Yaoundé study, the city covered roughly 85 square kilometres in 1984; by 2024 it had grown to about 470. Over the same four decades, the share of land covered by trees fell from 28.6% to just 5.
4%. The pressure behind this expansion is easy to understand. The United Nations put the capital's population at 5.1 million in 2025, while Cameroon's housing ministry estimated a national shortfall of 2.
5 million homes in 2020, felt most sharply in the capital. Because formal construction cannot keep pace, much of the city's growth has been informal, with settlements built without permits across valleys, wetlands and hillsides that once formed its green belt. Yet a counter-movement is taking root, literally. Jean-Baptiste Tchengang, a self-taught gardener aged 34, has run composting and plant-preservation workshops from his plot in Nkolbisson since 2022, a district that researchers identify as one of the city's earliest zones of expansion.