A Chinese high-speed railway into Laos is delivering millions of tourists — and a surge in demand for pangolin scales, rhino horn, and elephant ivory.
In a back-room restaurant in Laos, a menu item that does not appear on any official list is available to the right customer: pangolin, a scaly mammal so heavily trafficked that scientists now classify it as critically endangered. The dish is not an anomaly. It is part of a pattern that investigators say has accelerated dramatically since the China–Laos high-speed railway opened in 2021, cutting travel time between Kunming and Vientiane to under four hours and bringing millions of Chinese visitors across the border each year. Undercover reporting by The Guardian, conducted alongside Chinese wildlife activists, found that illegal shops and restaurants in Laos are openly selling pangolin scales, rhinoceros horn, and elephant ivory to buyers who arrive by rail.
The criminal networks operating these outlets are sophisticated: goods are stored off-site, prices are negotiated in private messaging apps, and sellers switch locations frequently to avoid detection. Officials in Laos, one of the world's poorest countries, have limited enforcement resources, and corruption within customs agencies has been documented by multiple international watchdogs. The pangolin is the most immediate casualty. All eight species are listed under CITES Appendix I, meaning commercial trade is prohibited globally, yet demand in parts of East Asia — driven by beliefs about the medicinal value of their scales — has proven nearly impossible to suppress.
Conservationists estimate that more than one million pangolins were taken from the wild in the decade before 2020 alone. What makes Laos particularly alarming is the combination of factors converging at once: a new transport corridor, a booming tourist economy, weak enforcement, and a consumer market large enough to absorb almost any supply.